For all you loyal (!!) followers out there, I apologize for not writing in the last 1.5 weeks, but my time spent down near Chanthaburi at Burapha University was quite busy and in the evenings, sleep was quite often more important than staying up and blogging!!
That said, this entry is actually being written from 35,000 feet on the Tokyo-Toronto flight, AC002, while awaiting the suspicious Air Canada hot supper that they are bringing shortly. I’m attempting to stay up for a while yet as it would be nice to reduce my jetlag by being able to sleep when I come home tonight. I was actually in good shape when I arrived in Thailand – jetlag didn’t really bother me, for the first time in a few trips. It may have had something to do with the fact that I didn’t sleep on the entire trip to Bangkok so was exhausted by the time I landed and hit a comfy bed!!
My time down at Burapha University was awesome!! I met so many great people and made many new friends. Everyone was very friendly and kind and fun to be around. It was certainly a full week! Each day was planned out and included trips to mines and basalt outcrops, visiting waterfalls and old 18th century forts, and of course eating a great quantity of fresh seafood!! Surin, the dean of the faculty of gemmology, took me to a fruit market the first day and I got to sample every possible fresh fruit you can imagine. As well as visit many orchards and farms to see how some of these exotic fruit grow. I even tried durian, although I must admit it isn’t my favorite fruit – the texture is like custard and the fruit itself is stinky and very sweet – too rich tasting for me. But durian chips are okay. They are like potatoe chips, but they use young durian so the flavor and smell is quite reduced. I also tried snake fruit (or salak) for the first time – it resembles a miniature football with a bunch of spines on it. The fruit has a pit inside and is a bit sweet-sour in flavor. Very good though!!
I got to visit a number of corundum ‘mines’ in the eastern and western basalt fields. First off, they are not ‘mines’ as we envisage in Canada. They are simply large holes in the ground that they bulldoze through to pick up the lateritic soil and send it in a slurry to a gravity separator. The clays and iron oxy-hydroxides are washed out into the sludge piles, and the heavy minerals are concentrated in a sealed container beneath the separator – corundum, spinel, zircon, Fe-Ti-oxides, etc. The mine owner comes by every couple of days to unlock the container and collect the heavy minerals. He then sorts through it and takes out all the corundum and chucks the remainder back into the sludge pile. It’s a pretty simple operation. They dig the weather basalt down to the bedrock and then the mine is finished. What is good about this system is that they are obliged to fill in the large hole they have dug, and since the lateritic soil is so nutrient-rich, it can be used for farming after mining is done. To find an old mine, all you have to do is look for a square water-filled hole – some of the older mines weren’t filled in and filled with water.
The interesting thing about corundum mining in Thailand is that it’s actually ILLEGAL!! And it’s all under the table. The mine owners rent the land from farmers and agree to restore the farm land when they are done. The farmer gets money under the table. The police and officials know this goes on, but they don’t stop it. It’s actually the reverse – they profit from it! On a regular basis, someone associated with the police and government goes around to each mine owner and collects what essentially amounts to a bribe so that they may continue mining! The black market operations continue through to the gem market – buyers and sellers alike are all making money under the table and no one is reporting it. The police and government know all about it, but I guess they get enough in bribe money that they simply go along with it. It’s incredible.
Puwadon took me to the two gem markets in Chanthaburi. Burapha University operates an ID and gemstone assessment lab in one of the main jewelry centres. For 200 Baht, they asses your stone, its quality and whether it is real or not. It’s good business for the University actually, and they are doing the gem community quite a big service.
In two sections of town, buyers and sellers gather to do business. Puwadon pointed out to me all the people carrying satchels and bags in the area – all of them filled with thousands or millions of baht worth of cut and uncut gemstones from all over the world. Strangely enough, it is the buyers who occupy tables along the side streets, out in the open, or in private shops. These buyers are generally specialized in one or two species or varieties of stones – sapphires, tanzanite, tourmaline, etc. And the sellers know who is interested in what gem. The seller is only an intermediary – he/she is often acting as a middleman between the true seller, who doesn’t want to be seen on the streets, and the buyer. The middleman takes the risk of walking around town with a fortune in gems on his body, hoping to sell the gems at a high enough value that he makes a profit. The seller will tell the middleman what price he wants for a stone. For example, 3000 baht. The middleman will attempt to sell the stone to a buyer at a higher price. Whatever value above the seller’s bottom line that the stone is sold for becomes profit for the middleman. If buyers are newbies, the profit for a seller and the middleman can be quite high. Apparently newbies are easily spotted – they are at the tables which are being swarmed by sellers! It’s a learning curve – you have to know the market prices of the stones or you will be swindled. Fortunes are made and sold every Friday and Saturday in Chanthaburi. Definitely a world that I am not familiar with at all!! To me, ya, they are pretty, but worth the expense? No. Can I cut them or powder them for analyses? Then sure!! But not at those prices.
Puwadon did supply me with zircons from 5 different localities – one in Chanthaburi area, and the other 4 from Ratanakiri in Cambodia. Even unheated-treated, they are beautiful zircons; one sample is a dark, rich red sample and would make a great stone even without turning it the bright blue that Ratanakiri zircons are prized for after heat-treatment.
Along with science, I spent a great deal of time getting to know my new colleagues/friends – Wow, Tuk, Surin, Om, Puwadon and Bee. They took me to a national park to see a waterfall and all the river carp, and one two occasions, Surin took me cycling along the coast road and into the hills. The first morning we went, we did about 30 km, and towards the half-way point, we had to climb up and over the large hills near the coast. Now, I’m not the most enthusiastic hill-climber on the best of days, so climbing this steep, long hill in 37° C weather and 100% humidity while on a very heavy mountain bike made the situation even worse!! Halfway up, I thought for sure I was going to hurl. I was simply drenched in sweat and dehydrated. I had to stop halfway to gulp down half a bottle of water. But by the end of the ride, I felt great! The area around Burapha is fantastic for cycling. I went out with Surin on my last day as well. I gave a 2 hour talk in the afternoon to 1st, 2nd and 4th year students about the mineralogy research that I am doing, focusing on Aris and Larvik. The students seemed interested, and even laughed for the time they were with me. Om translated for me, which made the talk last longer, but I’m getting used to these simultaneous talks! Afterwards, I felt like a superstar!! All the students wanted to have their pictures taken with me! It was kind of funny! After my talk, Surin suggested we do a 20 km bike ride – 10 km to Khung Wiman beach and 10 km back. It wasn’t a hilly ride, which was good since it was 5pm in the afternoon (our first ride, we started at 7am!). When we hit the beach, even though the surf was quite high and the current warning flags were out, I took off my shoes and socks and had a bit of a swim in the bath-water-temperature ocean of the Gulf of Thailand . I was only in long enough to get soaked and cool off, which was great for the way back – it meant I didn’t overheat. And it was one of the non-rainy days while I was there – blue skies and sunshine the entire time we were cycling.
My last evening at Burapha, we went out for a seafood feast southeast of Chanthaburi. It was fantastic – fish cakes, calamari, crab, raw oysters, some sort of crab dip, whole grilled seabass, you name it. The table was simply covered in different dishes! It was a great last supper as well – we laughed and joked for hours before heading back to the campus. The next morning, I felt sad to be leaving – I felt like I had been welcomed and accepted by the faculty and made some good friends. After a week, I wasn’t really looking forward to leaving! But I know I’ll be back in January, so that made it a bit easier.
The Burapha U. van took me back to Bangkok on Tuesday and I got off at a BTS station and took the skytrain to the hotel that Visut (Chulalongkorn U.) had booked for me, Krit Thai Mansion. It was directly across from MBK, and I’m not certain that I will ever stay there again. Possibly one of the noisiest hotels I have ever stayed in!! The AC unit sounded like an AirBus 320 revving it’s engines all night long, and right next door, a new building was being constructed and concrete and rebar activity could be heard all night long. That, and the staff simply weren’t all that nice – they always had a scowl on their face and looked like the last place they wanted to be was at work. Not entirely pleasant! But for 1000 baht/night, and within walking distance of the university and the NSM shuttle van, it was convenient.